Homage To Catalonia

We are in the region of Catalonia, made famous by George Orwell's book and the more recent Woody Allen movie, Vicky, Christina, Barcelona.  

Homage to Catalonia is Orwell's recount of his experience fighting with the Anarachists, or possibly the Socialists, during the Spanish Civil War.  This is a book I have started before, and am re-reading as we travel through the region.  Notice I said 'started before', not read before.  It is a book I have always struggled with - the description of the internal conflict between the Repulican forces is difficult to follow and not an easy read.  It is reminiscent of the Life of Brian sketch where Brian naively thinks the Romans are the enemy, but it is explained to him that the splitter group, the Judean People's Front is the true enemy of the people. It is the same with the various political groups and trade union organisations that should have bonded together to fight Franco - but they were too busy arguing amongst themselves.  

Girona in Northern Catalonia

Catalonia takes in the north east region of Spain, bordering France at the Pyrenees, taking in the main city of Barcelona, as extending south to Valencia  We think of Spain as a nation, like France or the UK, however it operates more as a federation of states.  The French and British nations formed from earlier medieval states into the strong central countries we know today.  Spain federated much later and continues to have five official languages and a number of additional recognised languages. Today many regions in Spain favour autonomy, or even separation, from the rest of Spain, the most radical of these being the Basque region and the Basque separatist group ETA was responsible for a campaign of violence which only abated very recently.  Catalonia, or Catalunya as it is known in the local Catalan language, is fiercely proud of being Catalan and not Spanish.  The Catalan language is widely spoken in the region and education is now provided principally in Catalan.  It is not a quaint oddity like Welsh - they are serious about making it the principal language in the area.  We were given a menu in a tapas bar which was entirely in Catalan - no Spanish translation provided.  Of the dozen dishes described on the menu I could probably recognise as many words - the language is that different.  It didn't really matter, we just picked randomly and it was all lovely.

The Catalan flag flies proudly from many homes and official buildings, including from many churches, and there are serious calls for separation.  However, today in Barcelona there was a major rally held to show support for Spain thousands of Catalans demonstrated their opposition to the separatist movement.  It became a struggle of tactics.  The pro-Catalans got wind of the upcoming rally and got to the designated square early in the morning, before the pro-Spanish, and set up breakfast stalls to negate the planned rally !  One thought is that when it comes to the crunch separation would not go ahead because if Catalonia goes it alone then Barcelona FC would then not have a national league to play in and the Catalans will not accept that.

A Catalonian flag hangs from a restaurant.